[GreenKeys] Refurbishing a KSR-33

Wed Feb 2 13:39:38 EST 2011

Chris,

Duco Cement or other plastic model glue works well on 33 parts.  Dont squeeze the broken parts to tightly together as that will defeat the chemical reaction of the glue with the plastic.  

Clean the wire contacts with contact cleaner sprayed on a Q tip or pipe cleaner and wipe carefully including the contact bar.  You can clean the distributor contacts with degreaser on a rag and then the eraser that Don suggested.  

Lots of visual inspection will bring things up to par.

Wayne

-----Original Message-----
From: Don Robert House <Packard42 at gmail.com>
To: Christian Gauger-Cosgrove <captainkirk359 at gmail.com>
Cc: greenkeys at mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tue, Feb 1, 2011 9:56 pm
Subject: Re: [GreenKeys] Refurbishing a KSR-33

Chris,
The old plastic is brittle and breaks very easily.  The parts are hard  
o find.
reat them carefully.  Formula 409 is a good cleaner and will not hurt  
ny
f the parts.  A folded dish cloth works pretty well. Q-Tips do not  
ast very
ong and your fingers get tired.
If something breaks or cracks you can usually repair the plastic with a
yanoacrylate cement or with an epoxy especially made for plastic.
 B Kwikplastik is such a product.
I wrote you that I had changed out the O with the arrow.  I DID NOT.
 WANT TO change it out if you would like to trade keytops.  If you use
y method you will not have a problem.
Put a little kerosine in a small spray bottle and spray where you think
he typing unit needs to be cleaned.  Then clean off the kerosine with  
n
rtists paintbrush or your Q-tips.  Be careful not to snag any springs.
Then you can blow out the typing unit with a vacuum cleaner stuck in
he output hole rather than the normal input hole.  Or a air compressor
et with the PSI lower than 50.  Hi pressure can actually knock parts
ut of the machine.
Use an eraser to clean the face of the distributor plate.  Keep all  
iquids
ut of the selector magnet armature.  That is cleaned with strips of  
ond
aper.
I will try to get the 33 training manual scanned as soon as I can.
Best,
on
9TTY

On 1 Feb 2011, at 8:25 PM, Christian Gauger-Cosgrove wrote:
Firstly, thanks to everyone who has responded for all the helpful
nformation.
I have no plans to muck about with the keyboard of my KSR-33, it's  
ine the
ay it is right now. (Little cleaning with a q-tip and some rubbing  
lcohol
on't
urt it, will it?)
I've managed to get the carriage returned; with help provided in that
epartment
y Mr. Dave Hunter. Though I've yet to get the system up and running  
o see
f
he carriage now travels freely.
I'm also handily getting a set of manuals on CD from Mr. Jim Haynes  
hich I
m
ery thankful for, as well as a scan of the Model 33 training manual  
rom
r. Don
obert House.
The issues with the motor burning out the fuse have been clarified by  
any,
specially
elpful has been Wayne. I'll have to take a look-see when I can get  
ome new
uses.

ow, for a few questions. Firstly, would it be possible/advisable to  
eplace
ll the fuses
nd fuse holders on the teletype with equivalently rated circuit  
reakers?
nd further,
ould the start capacitor for the motor be replaced with a modern
quivalent?
I ask about replacing the fuses with circuit breakers because honestly I
ind breakers to
e far more convenient then looking for fuses; plus they don't run out  
f
ou have an issue
hat you're trying to solve that results in the breaker popping all the
ime. The start cap
uestion is asked because it may or may not be part of the whole problem
ith the motor
uses.
As my second question, I'd like to know what everyone suggests regarding
leaning and
ubricating the machine. As a joke someone suggested "Why not just  
unk it
n a bath of
ylene, toluene, or both for a while?" Now, I know that will  
bsolutely and
ompletely remove
ll the grease in the teletype... however, I also know that that will  
lso
ompletely destroy all
he plastic and rubber parts of the teletype too -- which is probably  
ot a
ood thing. (Though
hat would probably work wonders on a 28 or 35; which are almost  
ompletely
etal, aren't they?)
I've heard good things of people using Marvel Mystery Oil on  
ypewriters (I
aw it used on an IBM
electric and it's apparently exceptionally good), has one here used  
t on
heir teleprinter to any
ood advantage?
Also, as a third question, does any one know where one can get Molex
onnectors that fit the
onnectors within the teletype? And also, how do the punch and reader
nterface with the teletype
n an ASR-33? I'm asking because I've had the idea of creating a "sort  
f"
SR-33 out of the KSR-33
y using a spare PC, which probably won't be feasible, as I'm thinking  
he
eader/punch connected
o the KSR-33 mechanisms via mechanical means and not electrically.

ow, sorry again for a very long and rambling e-mail. I'm very  
hankful for
ll help and suggestions. I
hould be able to do some work on them KSR-33 when I get some spare
ime/fuses. Also, if any one
ants to, you can call me Chris.

heers everyone!
C. M. Gauger-Cosgrove
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