[GreenKeys] [Bulk] Re: is this stuff any good?yes, no ? Kano's -, Kroil unruster

Mon Jun 8 02:15:52 EDT 2015

@Ralph

Why.. thank you, sir! ;-)

On Sun, Jun 7, 2015 at 8:57 PM, Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146 at earthlink.net>
wrote:

>  The stuff is called Ed's Red.
> To keep everyone from looking it up , here is an origional copy of a
> message Ed sent to people on the FIDO net years ago, before the internet.
>
> Ed's Red" Revisited... It Still Works...
>
> By Ed Harris         Rev. 5-9-94
>
> A year or so ago in these pages you may have seen my bore cleaner
> recipe, and thought it was a neat idea, but you never tried it
> and lost the recipe.  Several years after first concocting this
> stuff, my friends and I still think it's the best thing since
> smokeless powder!  So I summarize it again briefly for the
> passing parade that didn't get it the first time...
>
> I did this because I got disgusted with the high price of rifle
> bore cleaner.  I knew there was no technical reason why you could
> not mix your own with common hardware store ingredients which
> would be inexpensive, and effective, and provide reasonable
> corrosion protection and adequate lubrication.
>
> The "recipe" is based on proven principles and incorporates two
> polar and two nonpolar ingredients.  It is based upon a formula
> in Hatcher's Notebook, Frankford Arsenal Cleaner No.18, but
> substituting equivalent modern materials.  I had the help of an
> organic chemist in doing this and we knew there would be no
> "surprises"  The original Hatcher recipe called for equal parts
> of acetone, turpentine, Pratts Astral Oil and sperm oil, and
> optionally 200 grams of lanolin added per liter.
>
> Pratts Astral oil was nothing more than acid free, deodorized
> kerosene.  We use K-1 kerosene of the type normally sold for
> indoor space heaters.   An inexpensive and effective substitute
> for the sperm oil is found in Dexron IIe automatic transmission
> fluid.  Prior to about 1950 that most ATF's were sperm oil based,
> but during WWII a synthetic was developed for use in precision
> instruments.  With the great demand for automatic transmission
> autos after WWII, sperm oil was no longer practical to produce
> ATF in the quantity demanded, so the synthetic material became
> the basis for the Dexron fluids we know today.  The additives in
> ATFs which include organometallic antioxidants and surfactants,
> make it highly suitable for our intended purpose.
>
> There isn't anything in Ed's Red which will chemically remove
> copper fouling, but it does a better job on carbon residue than
> anything out there.  Several users have told me, that with
> exclusive use of "ER" does reduce the buildup of copper fouling,
> and that it does appear to remove it if you let it "soak" so the
> surfactants will do the job, though you may have to be patient.
>
> The lanolin makes the cleaner easier on the hands, and provides
> better residual lubrication and corrosion protection for longer
> term storage.  Mix some yourself.  I know it will work as well
> for you as it does for me.
>
> CONTENTS:     Ed's Red Bore Cleaner
>
> 1 part Dexron II or IIe ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later.
> 1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1
> 1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits, or Stoddard Solvent,
>   Fed. Spec. TT-T-2981F, CAS #64741-49-9 (aka "Varsol")
> 1 part Acetone, CAS #67-64-1.
>
> (Optional up to 1 lb. of Lanolin, Anhydrous, USP per gallon, aka
> Lanolin, Modified, Topical Lubricant, from the drug store)
>
> MIXING INSTRUCTIONS:
> Mix outdoors, in good ventilation.  Use a clean 1 gallon metal or
> chemical-resistant PET pr PVC plastic container.  Do NOT use
> HDPE, as it is breathable abnd the acetone will evaporate.  Also
> ER will eat HDPE in about 6 months, making a heck of a mess!
>
> Add the ATF first.  Use the empty container to measure the other
> components, so that it is thoroughly rinsed.  If you incorporate
> the lanolin into the mixture, melt this carefully in a double
> boiler, taking precautions against fire and pour it into a larger
> container, rinsing the lanolin container with the bore cleaner
> mix, and stirring until it is all dissolved.
>
> I recommend diverting a small quantity, about 4 ozs. of the 50-50
> ATF/kerosene for use as an "ER-compatible" gun oil.  This can be
> done without impairing the effectiveness of the resulting mix.
>
> INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING
>
>                      Ed's Red Bore Cleaner:
>
> 1.   Open the firearm action and ensure the bore is clear.
>      Cleaning is most effective when done while the barrel is
>      still warm to the touch from firing.  Saturate a cotton
>      patch with bore cleaner, wrap or impale on jag and push it
>      through the bore from breech to muzzle. The patch should be
>      a snug fit.  Let the first patch fall off and do not pull it
>      back into the bore.
>
> 2.   Wet a second patch, and similarly start it into the bore
>      from the breech, this time scrubbing from the throat area
>      forward in 4-5" strokes and gradually advancing until the
>      patch emerges out the muzzle. Waiting approximately 1 minute
>      to let the bore cleaner soak will improve its action.
>
> 3.   For pitted, heavily carbon-fouled "rattle battle" guns,
>      leaded revolvers or neglected bores a bronze brush wet with
>      bore cleaner may be used to remove stubborn deposits.  This
>      is unnecessary for smooth, target-grade barrels in routine
>      use.
>
> 4.   Use a final wet patch pushed straight through the bore to
>      flush out loosened residue dissolved by Ed's Red.  Let the
>      patch fall off the jag without pulling it back into the
>      bore.  If you are finished firing, leaving the bore wet will
>      protect it from rust for up to 30 days.   If the lanolin is
>      incorporated into the mixture, it will protect the firearm
>      from rust for up to two years.  For longer term storage I
>      recommend use of Lee Liquid Alox as a Cosmolene substitute.
>      "ER" will readily remove hardened Alox or Cosmolene.
>
> 5.   Wipe spilled Ed's Red from exterior surfaces before storing
>      the gun. While Ed's Red is harmless to blue and nickel
>      finishes, the acetone it contains is harmful to most wood
>      finishes).
>
> 6.   Before firing again, push two dry patches through the bore
>      and dry the chamber, using a patch wrapped around a suitably
>      sized brush or jag.  First shot point of impact usually will
>      not be disturbed by Ed's Red if the bore is cleaned as
>      described.
>
> 7.   I have determined to my satisfaction that when Ed's Red is
>      used exclusively and thoroughly, that hot water cleaning is
>      unnecessary after use of black powder, Pyrodex or chlorate
>      primers.  If hot water cleaning is used, you should be sure
>      to flush thoroughly with Ed's Red to prevent after-rusting
>      which could result from residual moisture.  It is ALWAYS
>      good practice to clean TWICE, TWO DAYS APART whenever using
>      chlorate primed ammunition, just to make sure you get all
>      the residue out.
>
> LABEL AND OBLIGATORY SAFETY WARNINGS:
>
>                                     RIFLE BORE CLEANER
>                                          CAUTION:
>                                    HARMFUL IF SWALLOWED.
>                                KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* drlegendre . <drlegendre at gmail.com>
> *To:* Jeffrey D Angus <jdangus at att.net>
> *Cc:* Green Keys <greenkeys at mailman.qth.net>
> *Sent:* Sunday, June 07, 2015 7:32 PM
> *Subject:* Re: [GreenKeys] [Bulk] Re: is this stuff any good?yes, no ?
> Kano's -, Kroil unruster
>
>
> I've heard of, but never tried the Fred's Red concoction.. what are its
> supposed properties and uses? I also saw the comment about "ATF replacing
> whale oil in the original formula" - was that a joke? If not, what
> "original formula" are you referring to - a discontinued commercial
> product?
>
>
>
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