[GreenKeys] 28KSR question...

[Steve Garrison]

Looks like it is time to break out the solder iron!

 

For testing purposed, how about using some mini-clip from the upper pins on the outer unused connector to the correct pins on the bottom of the inner connector.   Once you have verified which wires need to be relocated and to which pins, then it’s time to rewire.

 

Steve G./N4TTY

 

From: greenkeys-bounces at mailman.qth.net <greenkeys-bounces at mailman.qth.net> On Behalf Of E.
Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2020 10:01 AM
To: Green Keys <greenkeys at mailman.qth.net>
Subject: Re: [GreenKeys] 28KSR question...

 

 

HI Ralph,

 

Yeah, I apologize, the first photo I attached last night wasn’t so good ;o … this one (attached) has a slightly better angle, where you can see the four bell wires from the stunk box, going to the unoccupied connector :) .

 








On May 13, 2020, at 7:55 am, Ralph Irish <w8roi at wowway.com <mailto:w8roi at wowway.com> > wrote:

Eric

For something as elementary and regular as the Bell function, there may not be a great deal of
differences in wiring.  For many other things, though, there are almost as many different,
'standard' diagrams as there are keys on the keyboard!  Just depends on who was going to be
using a machine and how many machines they were expected to buy from Teletype.  Two of those
four wires are wired to the switch that activates the bell.  Not certain about the other two.

Those switches are manufactured 'two to an assembly' and sometimes had both an open and a 
closed contact.  Some of the open contacts are held closed by positioning, and the reverse
also holds true.  This was set up to be as versatile as possible for anyone doing 'programming'
of stunt boxes.

If you carefully, and I mean  CAREFULLY, use a live power cord and apply 115V very quickly to
terminals 29 & 30, or wherever the bell wires terminate, you should hear a 'ding'.  MAKE
CERTAIN THAT EVERYTHING IS POWERED OFF AND ALL PLUGS TO ACCESSORY EQUIPMENT PULLED WHEN YOU
DO THIS.  Don't rely on any other switching to assume that it is safe with anything else
plugged in.

If you get the 'ding' that means the bell is OK, and that there is some other interruption
in the Bell circuit.  Wire tracing and an ohmmeter will be required, probably.

-   -   -   -

I can see orange and yellow wires in the left side photo on the switches and the same colors
on the 'occupied' connector in the second photo.  I don't see any wires on the auxiliary
connector in the second photo.  The 'occupied' connector should also have the wires from
the selector magnets and possibly others from other equipment installed.  Maybe an
Answerback trip solenoid, or a print suppression solenoid, etc.

That second (auxiliary) connector is there in case more switches are installed to do some
'tricks' or stunts, from incoming signal sequences.

Good luck!

Ralph - W8ROI

-   -   -   -   -   -   -   -


On May 12, 2020, at 9:18 PM, E. wrote:





Thanks all for all the replies ^^ !  I believe the bell contact board is this little guy in the photo attached, right?  It appears that the wires from it go to the empty connector on the right - in the second photo (attached)… so it really goes no where.  If I’m looking at it correctly - why is this???  Is there a way to rectify the situation ;p ?  Will look at the wiring diagram after supper…..


<IMG_0054.jpg><IMG_0055.jpg>
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