[Mobile-Portable] Mobile equipment used by WD8ARZ - Antenna's Part 3 of 3

[WD8ARZ]

For the base, I use a Carolina 10-160 Windom antenna. The long 266' run
gives many lobes, so even when hung low for NVIS, there still lobes for DX.
Depending on its installation profile, an internal ATU will handle it just 
fine
on all bands, or should, some designs of ATU have problems with certain
band combinations. Preferring the TS-480 HX here, so I use external antenna
tuners that are faster and tune a wider range than internal tuners can do.
For digital modes, I like the computer interfacing to to the LDG 200PC so
the antenna tuning is selected and relays not cycling before the RF is
applied to the unit. http://www.radioworks.com/ccw160.html

For the mobile voice antenna, I went with a HiQ 5/160 as I like the
performance on 80 and 160 of this large coil antenna.
http://www.hiqantennas.com/HiQ5160.htm

To provide quick auto tuning of the HiQ antenna (with out having to bottom
out the antenna first when changing bands) N2VZ Turbo Tuner for the Kenwood
TS-480HX. Just push a button on the radio and the antenna self tunes from
six meters through 160 Meters. Sweet! http://www.n2vz.com

For mobile digital automatic band tuning switching, I use a long whip and a
auto tuner, such as the LDG AT-200PC, but you could use the PRO version. A
screwdriver antenna is not fast enough and you will burn out the motor
trying. LDG AT-200 PC auto tuner is intended for program control. Software
control can select memory settings after the atu has been trained with
frequencies of interest. This means relay operations occur with out RF
arcing on the relay contacts. Once a frequency is pre-tuned, it goes into
memory and is reselected the next time in a fraction of a second. The AT-220
AT is the same auto tuner but no computer interface. Both models needs to
have each frequency you will transmit on trained once, and get added to the
memory of  the unit for that frequency. PC controlled version means no RF on
the relay contacts in the atu as the relay selection process takes place
before transmitting.
http://www.ldgelectronics.com/products.php?cID=1&pID=4&v=1

Do you need to match that mobile antenna for more inductance? A nice
weather resistant adjustable shunt load inductor called the Shunt-100 is
available from RepDesign. I have one and love it.
http://www.repdesign.us/gpage18.html

If you want to, you could use a switchable inductor. I use one sometimes
when doing digital modes from the mobile using a long whip, such as when
doing Automatic Link Establishment mode. MFJ makes a nice one that has
handled the ranges I have needed, but you need to have it inside the 
vehicle.
Once I have chosen what bands I want to operate (day time higher
frequencies, night time lower frequencies for example), I choose the range
that lets the auto tuner operate properly for that range and whip / wire 
antenna
in use. MFJ-914 1.8-30 Mhz Auto Tuner Extender.  A switched UNIN
(UNbalanced to UNbalanced transmission line transformer) with multiple
impedance taps may be your answer.
http://www.mfjenterprises.com/Product.php?productid=MFJ-914

Hey, a great tip I have been hearing is to separate those cables from your
Screwdriver type antenna to where they are going inside the mobile. This
keeps motor control noise off of the antenna coax, and makes it easier to
filter them separately. Dont run all leads and cables from the antenna all
bundled up together. You might get away with it in some cases but not all.
Reed position switch wires, motor control wires, and of course the coax 
itself.
If you use a controller like N2VZ Turbo Tuner, you wont need to run the
magnetic reed switch wires at all.

Winter is on the way, dont forget to clean up the antenna's and hardware,
and verify the sealing is still in good shape if any is used in your system.
Tighten up those connections, especially battery connections and
capacitance hat lobes. Fresh guy lines??

RainX was should be applied to your antenna and hardware after they have
had a good cleaning. Use the was version and not the cleaner. Snow, Ice
and Slush shouldnt build up as bad, and be much easier to fall off or be
cleaned off after the RainX application. Good for the satellite dish too!

RFI, we all have it at one time or the other. Most frequently we are also
frustrated with efforts to fix it that doesnt work well on the HF bands. The
reason is that most unmarked on sale RFI suppression components dont use
Type 31 or better ferrite material.

Basically we need to put ferrite 'RF' chokes on the lines and devices that
we need to protect. Many readily available ferrite chokes, snap or slip on,
are just not up to the performance we expected of them. Fortunately a better
line of ferrite material is available that is much more effective than what
we normally have used. from the Fair-Rite site my eyes have been opened and
better options are now available to contain these concerns. It is important
that just because a ferrite slip on / clamp on is available to be used,
doesnt mean it is up to the task for hf frequencies.... and sometimes  it
may take more than one device on a line or in a area. Look for up to date
information online.

 Summary:
 Fair-Rite EMI Suppression Ferrite Cores
 Mouser Electronics  800 346-6873

 Fair-Rite 2631480002 is a "bead" a little under 1/2" OD, 0.2" ID and 1"
long.
 Beads (cylinders) Mouser Stock No 623-2631480002

 Fair-Rite 2631665702 "beads", 0.687" OD, 0.375" hole, 1.125" long.
 Beads (cylinders)  Mouser Stock No 623-2631665702

 Fair-Rite 0431167281, 0.93" diameter, 0.4" bore, 1.55" long.
 Clamp On Cases  Mouser Stock No 623-0431167281

Of course none of this works well if good (no not good, great) grounding
with braid / strap strips are not used.  Goggle searches will lead you to
web sites with pdf files that have the  specs for these items if your
interested.

73 from Bill - WD8ARZ
http://hflink.net/qso/