[GreenKeys] Lubrication

[Lester Veenstra]

The issue documented is in the mixture of Synthetic and mineral oil.  That
seems to form gunk.   Since I am lubing running machines rather than
starting with an oil free rebuild, I will stay traditional.


Lester B Veenstra  MØYCM K1YCM W8YCM
lester at veenstras.com

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-----Original Message-----
From: GreenKeys [mailto:greenkeys-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of John
Nagle
Sent: Saturday, June 13, 2015 7:10 PM
To: greenkeys at mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [GreenKeys] Lubrication

> On Jun 12, 2015, at 12:43 PM, Lester Veenstra wrote:
>
>> >I am sure this subject has been discussed to death, but I do not appear
to
> have saved any of the good bits, so:
>> >
>> >What is a modern (Synthetic) replacement for the standard Teletype oil
> KS-7470   (PN 88970/88971)?

     I've been using 0-20W synthetic motor oil on my five machines since
2007.  You want a low-viscosity oil, of course. The advantage of 
synthetic oil is that it's all one molecular weight, so that when
it evaporates, it doesn't leave the heavy fractions behind as gunk.
It's cheap and easy to get.

     For grease, I use white lithium grease in a small grease gun.
Motor pinions, which turn fast enough to throw off grease, get
Lucas Red-N-Tacky grease.

     I've been through the miserable experience of restoring a
Model 15 machine oiled with the wrong lubricants.  The
the light fractions had evaporated, leaving the heavy
fractions behind.   Days of soaking in Simple Green
followed by a rinse in de-ionized water cleaned up the
exposed parts, but the main shaft parts were stuck solid.
I had to remove the main shaft, use Loctite Freeze and Release
Spray to get some of the parts off, clean off the solid
black gunk with Scotchbrite, repeat the Simple Green and
water washes, reassemble, adjust, and lubricate.  Not fun.

     There's no particular reason to use classic lubricants.
There's been progress since the era of whale oil.

			John Nagle
			http://www.aetherltd.com
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